Oh, my goodness. This walk is sublime in every way.
First, let it be known that I have lived in the Pinole-Hercules-El Cerrito corridor area for almost 25 years, and I never knew this gem was there! I’ve driven Highway 4 many times between east 80 and 680, and always admired the hills and open space, but never imagined I could go spend time there in a park.
There is so much to love about Fernandez Ranch– from the wildlife to the lush open space as a feast for the eyes, to the astounding sense of quiet, to the unlimited educational opportunities. More about that last one later.
First, know this: spring is definitely the time to go to Fernandez Ranch. My sister-in-law reported that she went in late summer and there was a slight tick infestation–super gross. Also, Fernandez Ranch is home to the protected Alameda whipsnake–yes, snake– and I’m thinking that in summer, you’re probably going to see a lot of them. Early spring is ideal because it’s still cool and there aren’t a lot of them around. (We saw one.)
And of course, there’s the total lushness of the place!
The butterfly is, I believe, a pale swallowtail. I’m not 100% sure, but that is the closest that I can identify it in my Bay Area and Sierra Nevada field guides.
For the trail, we took the Windmill Trail all the way up to the view point cattle gate past which you need a hiking permit (which just sounds super exciting and adventurous, doesn’t it? What do you have to do to qualify for a hiking permit? My mind conjures up all kinds of endurance tests and lifting of cars like World’s Strongest Man contests and things). This way up is steep and perhaps not for the weak-kneed or hipped, but my four year old had no problem with it. That said, there is another way up– a more gentle, switchback incline. See below. I prefer getting my hard work out of the way first, and enjoying the downhill, but the incline is harsh. Then again, so would be the descent.
- Method 1: Take Windmill Trail up all the way until you read the cattle gate with the hiking permit required sign. To descend, take the Woodrat Trail down until you reach the sign post for Windmill Trail or Whipsnake Trail. Take the Windmill Trail. (Whipsnake Trail is good, too, but it will be much, much longer.)
- Method 2: Take Windmill Trail to the sign post for Woodrat Trail and take that. Follow it all the way up to the hiking permit required cattle gate.
Whipsnake Trail is lovely, too, but the combination of Windmill Trail and Woodrat Trail were perfect for our small boys. End with lunch at the Homestead Picnic site, which is next to the entrance.
I’ve highlighted the way up in red, the way down in green. Of course, reverse it if you like, or take the Black Phoebe Trail from the entrance — but at least you know our way was kid-tested.
Animals
On the day we went, we saw so many wonderful creatures. Here’s what we saw:
- Cows (of course)
- Whipsnake (it was fast and has two yellow stripes down its dark body)
- Red-tailed hawk
- Pale swallowtail butterfly (I believe; as much as we could identify)
- Turkey vultures
- Robins in meadow
Information
To get there
From east-bound 80, take Highway 4. Take Christie Road, the first exit past Franklin Canyon Gold Course and be sharp– it’s a minor exit, a quick, fast road, and it’s right before the railroad trestle and easy to miss. If you are one of those people who read directions ahead of time and STILL miss your exit, you are in good company, because I did that too. So just get off at Cummings Skyway and get back on 4, and then turn around at the next possible exit.
From west-bound Highway 4, take the Franklin Canyon Exit. Turn left and merge onto Highway 4 eastbound — do it fast and be careful. Take the first exit after the Franklin Canyon Golf Course onto Christie Road. Note the silly move I made above.
There is a parking lot with a bathroom; cross the bridge to find the trail and begin. There are no water facilities.
